The DC Traveler

I had walked by the Califorina-influenced winebar/restaurant Grapeseed in Bethesda many times over the years. As one of DC’s highly rated restaurants, I recently decided to have dinner there.

It’s billed as a sophisticated California wine bar and bistro, but I must say, I did not get a very comfortable feeling when I entered the restaurant and looked over the wine bar. It seemed a bit too casual, colorless and cold. Definitely not what I would call hip California casual. Based on its reputation as a DC favorite (in the “expensive” category), I had incorrectly assumed that patrons would be dressed up a bit more for a Saturday evening on the town. Yet the crowd looked similar to one found in any other “casual” or moderately priced neighborhood restaurant.

Checking in with the hostess within a couple minutes of our scheduled reservation time, turned into a bit of an ordeal. It made me wonder if I had made a good selection for the evening. After giving my name, the hostess answered the phone which turned into about a 7-minute long conversation, completely ignoring me and my party. We rated not even a glance or whispered “sorry”. Even the addition of a second person at the hostess stand, after 5 minutes of waiting, who was more interesed in repeatedly checking the reservation book, then finding us a table. He did nothing except silently look at my party, which didn’t seem to help speed the process. But eventually we were seated in a booth that was very comfortable and private.

We started off by checking out the extensive international wine list. With probably 100 selections by the glass or by the 3 ounce sample pour, the decision-making process took a while. Luckily, our waiter was thoroughly knowledgeable about each of the wines we were contemplating, and described each one rather effectively. We each selected a different Cabernet and when they arrived, shared a taste to determine which wine each person enjoyed the most. Surprisingly, we all selected the same Cabernet from California for our second glass.

Their menu changes frequently and is not listed online, (only a sample menu is available), but the staff is very familiar with all the dishes and ingredients. Different from most bistros, I found the menu to offer a nice variety of more complex and seasonal dishes with a few non-traditional twists from the typical bistro offerings.

I thoroughly enjoyed my ultra-tender and rich braised lamb shank with mixed greens and white beans. The portion was more than filling. Additionally, the phyllo-wrapped Black Cod with clams, olives and potatoes was also delicious and different.

Our waiter was very helpful and attentive but did not intrude or over-manage our table. The no-rush attitude made us feel all comfortable and relaxed.

Dinner appetizers are priced $5.50 to $15.00 and entrees range form $25 - $35.

I would recommend Grapeseed, but don’t expect a high-end ambience. Think “upscale casual” in atmosphere, with decidedly “upscale” food.

Grapeseed
4865-C Cordell Avenue
Bethesda, MD (map it)
301-986-9592

Hours - Daily from 5:00 p.m. until 10 Mon. - Thur., 11:00 Fri. - Sat. and 9:00 on Sunday.

Reservations - recommended, especially on weekends, and can be made online.

Nearest Metro Subway Station - Bethesda - Red line, then a ½ mile walk.

Parking - Valet parking is available for $5.00 or metered street or public garage meter parking is available,. But check the meters for maximum times allowed and effective hours carefully. Bethesda is notorious for very expensive parking tickets and aggressive enforcement.

Images - 1 - Grapeseed, 2 & 3 - personal collection

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